diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
index 66d30c1..6fcbe2c 100644
--- a/README.md
+++ b/README.md
@@ -737,6 +737,40 @@
 I didn't test it as thoroughly as I did D-23, so it might just be a
 lack of understanding on my part.
 
+
+### Update 12-16-2023: Using An A Conventional Daylight Tank For Rollfilm
+
+Periodically going into a darkened darkroom to agitate film in an open
+tank is inconvenient.  For sheet film, it's sort of the easiest way to
+do it, unless you want to resort to making your own light tight tubes
+in the manner of someone like Steve Sherman. Either way, you want to
+keep the film off the bottom of the container and have minimal contact
+between the film and it's support mechanis.  For this reason, I
+continue to open tank process sheet film and suspend it with Kodak #6
+hangers.
+
+For 35mm and rollfilm, it's appealing to be able to do this in a
+conventional Nikor style daylight tank.  The issue is that you still
+have to suspend the film above the bottom of the tank to reduce the
+risk of bromide drag.
+
+Someone suggested the idea of using an empty reel at the bottom of the
+tank, and loading the reel with film on top of it.  I tried this with
+35mm and got ... lots of streaking along the edge of the film closest
+to the empty reel below it.  This supports the hypothesis that too
+much material in the way tends to trap used developer and produce
+bromide byproducts.  So no, and empty reel to hold the film off the
+bottom is not recommended.
+
+Next, I tried a small inverted funnel in the tank.  This lifts the reel
+off the bottom of the tank, with nothing immediately below the loaded
+reel's film wind layers.  This worked great, and is now how I do 35mm
+EMA and semistand.
+
+I have not tried this with 120 rollfilm, but I suspect I'd get similar
+results and for the same reasons.
+
+
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